In a First, Nepali, Chilean Climbers Scale Sharphu IV

March 25 witnessed the first successful ascent of the Sharphu IV (6,433 meters) in the Kanchanjunga region, also marking the first successful expedition of this mountaineering season.
 

Chilean climber Hernán Leal, along with Nepali climbers Purnima Shrestha, Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa and Ngada Sherpa, reached atop at 3:00 pm on March 25.  

Talking to nepalverifiednews.com, Pemba Sherpa, the director of the Xtreme Climbers Treks & Expeditions P. Ltd, the organizer of the “Fastco Sharphu IV (6,433m) First Ascent Expedition”, said the team scaled the peak at the first shot, after the government granted permissions for the ascent of a number of previously-unopened peaks, including Sharphu IV, this climbing season.

Sharphu II and III have been probably attempted before, but this is the first attempt to scale Sharphu IV, and it became successful, Sherpa said.  

Part of the Facebook post from the organizer reads: After weeks of meticulous route-setting, high-altitude acclimatization, and technical rotations, the Xtreme Climbers “Fastco Sharphu IV (6,433m) First Ascent Expedition” seized a perfect weather window to launch their final summit push. Braving subzero temperatures and treacherous mixed terrain of ice, rock, and snow, the team navigated the formidable slopes of Sharphu IV, overcoming extreme challenges with unwavering determination.

At precisely 3:00 pm on March 25, 2025, a historic milestone in Himalayan mountaineering was achieved as the summit team successfully stood atop Sharphu IV (6,433m) in the remote Kangchenjunga region of Nepal, marking the “first recorded ascent of this previously unclimbed peak”, setting a new benchmark in high-altitude exploration and exemplifying the resilience, skill, and dedication of the expedition team.